Did you know that the Sacré-Cœur Basilica was a bombing target during the Second World War? Or that a “National Vow“ from 1870 was the primary reason it was built in the first place? You might also be surprised to discover that the imprisoned Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, and their family are featured in the choir’s mosaics, or that there is a guesthouse for pilgrims located right next door. To view only photos visit the photo page for A Paris History Walk Inside the Sacré-Coeur Basilica.
Navigating the Basilica: The Audio Guided Tour
Even if you have visited before, it is easy to miss the smaller details of its rich history. On my recent visit, I set out to find some of the highlights I’d overlooked in the past, including the official audio guided tour and the choir mosaic details. (Note: You can click on the photos throughout this post to see them in a larger format.)
Once you enter the basilica and turn the corner to walk along the left aisle, look for a brochure stand after the first chapel. The QR code there provides a paper guide with a quick historical overview. Continuing further, you will find a second QR code on a poster—this is the audio guided tour. It offers wonderful descriptions of the mosaics in the choir above the altar, the inner dome, the altar itself, and various chapels—including the Chapel of Our Lady of the Sea and the Chapel of Saint Ursula, where a detailed model of the basilica is on display.
A Tip for the Basilica’s Website
While researching this story, I discovered that the French version of the Sacré-Cœur website contains much more information (such as details on the stained glass windows) than the English version. I recommend using the French site and allowing your browser to translate the text. Armed with these new details, I will have to return for another look! In the meantime, here is what I found on my short history walk.
Thirteen Bombs Missed the Basilica
Upon entering the church and turning left, stop at the wall before the first chapel. A stone plaque recounts the remarkable story of the night between April 20 and 21, 1944. A stone map illustrates the points de chute(impact points) of thirteen bombs that fell along the southeast side of the building. Despite landing between the church and nearby houses, the bombs caused no casualties—an event the rector and local inhabitants viewed as divine intervention.
How the Idea To Build Began: The National Vow
As you move along the side aisle, you will encounter a standing font. Behind it, set against a shimmering gold background, is an inscription detailing the those who initiated the idea and the National Vow (Vœu National). The other font has the key starting dates for building on the idea in Montmartre. Following a period of military defeat and turmoil between the French Revolution and the Franco-Prussian War, Alexandre Legentil proposed a project for a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. He was joined in this quest by his brother-in-law, Hubert Rohault de Fleury. Along the left side aisle, you can find separate labels marking the timeline of this journey—from the first vow to the laying of the cornerstone.
Mosaics on the Right Side of the Choir
Much like a giant, shiny comic book, the mosaics throughout the basilica’s chapels and choir tell vivid stories. The academic painter Luc-Olivier Merson, H. M. Magne and R. Martin designed the choir visual narrative. The design was pieced together by the Parisian master artisans of the Atelier Guilbert-Martin. When you reach the choir mosaics, their names are visible in mosaics between the Zouave soldier and Louis XVI. It took nearly 20 years and over 25,000 pieces of enamel and gold to complete the project, with the final piece laid in 1923.
The choir mosaic covers approximately 475 square meters, making it one of the largest in the world. The weight of the glass and ceramic pieces alone is estimated at over 68 tons, which required the reinforced concrete structure of the basilica to be specifically engineered to support it.
On my visit, I Peered through the pillars from the side aisle. I noticed a striking group of figures: men in suits, a family, a prison guard, and even bodies. Luc-Olivier Merson’s artwork depicts the founders presenting their National Vow and a model of the basilica to Christ.
To better understand these scenes, I reached out to Anita, a licensed French guide (conférencière), who provided deep insights into these mosaics:
“The first scene depicts a moment from the French Revolution,” Anita explains. “The royal family is shown imprisoned in the Temple (1792), kneeling in prayer: King Louis XVI, Queen Marie Antoinette, their children (the Dauphin and his sister), and the King’s sister, Madame Élisabeth. Tragically, Madame Élisabeth would be the only member of the family to survive the Revolution. She later married her close cousin and became the Duchess of Angoulême, though she remained traumatized and never had children””
The figure in the red cap is the prison guard carrying the keys. His cap is a Phrygian hat, which was adopted by revolutionaries as a symbol of liberty. The red hat is based on the hats given to freed slaves in Ancient Rome. Nearby, a man in a dark, hooded garment represents a penitent. For many devout Catholics, the execution of the King and the rise of secularism created a profound need for national atonement—the very necessity that led to the National Vow.
According to the audio guide, another significant grouping behind Louis XVI’s family depicts the Cardinal de Belsunce, the Bishop of Marseilles. He is shown making a vow in order to remove the plague that devastated his city between 1720 and 1721, thus the bodies depicted in the mosaics. On the left side of the choir the mosaic image depicts people in traditional attire representing the five continents paying tribute to the Sacred Heart.
The Founders and the Zouave
Continuing forward with the mosaic of the National Vow, the scene transitions to 1870. Standing behind the bishop are two key laymen: Alexandre Legentil (kneeling) and Hubert de Fleury. Beside them is Émile Keller, the political supporter who presented the project to the French National Assembly.
Among these figures is a Zouave soldier, easily recognizable by his baggy trousers and short jacket. These elite infantry units were famous for their exotic uniforms. Interestingly, the painter Frédéric Bazille, a close friend of the early Impressionists, enlisted as a Zouave and was tragically killed during the Franco-Prussian War.
An Alternate Route to Sacré-Cœur
What is the best way to reach the summit? While most take the No. 40 bus, the funicular, the famous stairs from Place Saint-Pierre, and rue Muller’s stairs.There is a quieter alternative and not any longer.
Exit the metro at Château Rouge, head north on Rue Custine, take a sharp left onto rue Ramey, right on Passage Cottin. Take the narrow stairway passage of rue du Chevalier de la Barre. At the top of these stairs, as you walk toward the north side of the basilica, you will pass the pilgrim guest house, formerly the Hôtellerie Éphrem.
The Magic of Château de Landon Stone
You may notice the north side of the basilica appears darker and sootier than the rest of the building. Because the north side receives less rain and sunlight, less calcite is released. On the other sides, this calcite reacts with rainwater to create a natural self-cleaning chemical reaction, keeping the stone brilliantly white.
The stone used to build Sacré-Cœur is the same variety used for the Arc de Triomphe, the Sorbonne and and La Sainte Geneviève on the Pont de la Tournell.
Advice on Visiting the Sacre-Coeur Basilica
Go early in the morning for nice lighting and avoid the crowds, which start around 11 a.m. Security is relatively easy. If the gate beyond security is closed, the dome and the crypt are closed. When you can visit them, it is easy to proceed to the basilica interior or vice versa. By the way, there is a 360 degree virtual tour Coming soon – where to see different photo views of Sacre Coeur around Paris. Enjoy!
Additional reading – Translate French sites in Your Browser
- Mosaics of the Choir – Sacre-Coeur website
- Wikipedia
- Carriere de Souppes (quarry of Château-Landon)
- Stone Ideas.com – information on Paris monuments using Château-Landon