Have you ever looked at contemporary fashion and felt a strange sense of déjà vu? You might find yourself wondering: is that dress truly “modern,” or is it a ghost from the late 1700s? Were the designers of the Enlightenment actually remixing looks from the 1600s? And why, even in the 1800s, did fashionistas insist on going “retro” with their corsets and gowns? Where do contemporary designers get their ideas?
The fascination that modern artists and designers have with the 18th century is exactly what makes the latest exhibition at the Palais Galliera Musée de la Mode a must-see. The Musée Cognacq-Jay’s 18th century collection and current exhibition details a history of dressing up and social identity through paintings. Check out my exhibition photo galleries for Galliera and Cognacq-Jay.
A Fantasized Legacy at Palais Galliera
Running until July 12, 2026, “FASHION IN THE 18th CENTURY: A Fantasized Legacy” https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/fashion-18th-century-fantasized-legacy is more than just a gallery of old clothes—it’s a time-traveling trail. The exhibition is cleverly divided into four distinct eras:
- 1700 to 1792: Part 1 – Characterising women’s fashion
- 1885: Part 2 – The corset of Queen Marie-Antoinette
- 1840–1930: Part 3 – Nostalgia for a fantasized fashion and Watteaumania
- 1950–2020: Part 4 – Towards a utopia of appearances, 1950-2020
The curators have designed this path to help you weave your way through “fashion time.” As the Palais Galliera notes, the Enlightenment (1715-1789) was a period where women’s fashion became a “ground for effervescent creativity.” While men’s style had already shifted by the late 17th century, women’s clothing underwent a full-scale aesthetic revolution.
After a brief interlude where “antiquity fashion” took over, the corset came roaring back. By the late 1800s, it was the height of chic to dress up for balls and portraits as if you’d stepped right out of the 1700s. It’s a cycle of influence that hasn’t stopped since, including a revival in the 1920s, 1950s and 1960s until about 2020. I was passing a wedding gown shop on Boulevard Henri IV. The bustier and corset are alive and still popular!
Ticket Tip: Don’t just stop at the Palais Galliera . Buy the combined ticket to include the Cognacq-Jay Museum’s exhibition. It’s the perfect companion piece to complete the story.
Revealing the Feminine at Museé Cognacq-Jay
Fashion and Appearances in the 18th century
Just a short trip away to the Marais, the Musée Cognacq-Jay presents “Révéler le féminin – Mode et Apparences au XVIIIe siècle,” until September 20, 2026.
While the Palais Galliera focuses on the “legacy” and its influence over three decades, the Cognacq-Jay offers a look at the 18th-century collection of Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay. Here, you find an immersion into the fascinating universe of feminity during the Enlightenment period (1715-1789). Portraits, 18th-century Rococo pastoral paintings and texiles show an idealized and poetic feminity – a continuation of fantasized fashion.
Whether you’re a fashion history buff or someone who wants to get to the source of fashion in the 18th century and didn’t know it, these two shows offer a glimpse into why the 18th century fashions continue to spur the imagination,
Three special notes about Marie-Antoinette’s corset
- When Palais Galliera purchased the corset at auction in 1997, as well as the two ledgers of monsieur Eloffe. He obtained the ledgers when he took over the business from madame Pompey, an established clothing merchant in Versailles and supplier to the queen. The ledgers mention Marie-Antoinette as owner of the corset.
- The corset on display required a specially-made mannequin of “fosshape” to expose the corset. The fosshape is heat-activated to form to a particular shape. Marie-Antoinette had a 52cm (20 inch) waist before her pregnancies.
- The corset sleeves force the shoulders back to maintain a straight back.
A special note about Karl Lagerfeld
The gown at the end of Cognacq-Jay’s exhibition is from Karl Lagerfeld’s last Chanel collection. His inspiration for the collection and particularly the gown came from a 2018 exhibit “La Fabrique du Luxe” at Musée Cognacq-Jay.